Climb Ratings
Climb ratings are broken down into a three-part system. The
first is called the Grade. This grade is the overall length and
severity of a route. Grade can be subdivided into six categories,
designated by Roman numerals.
GRADE I - Very short climb requiring
only 1 or 2 hours
GRADE II - Short climb requiring
about a half a day
GRADE III - Climb requiring most
of a day
GRADE IV - Climb requiring an entire
day
GRADE V - Long climb requiring
2 days
GRADE VI - Very long climb requiring
more than 2 days
The second part of the rating system is called the Class.
This describes how difficult the climbing is. Class is also subdivided
into six categories, represented by numbers.
CLASS 1 : Extremely easy, such as walking
along a trail or path
CLASS 2 : Off-trail hiking or boulder
hopping that occasionally requires the use of hands for balance
CLASS 3 : Climbing that requires
the constant use of hands; the slope steepens, some climbers will
desire a rope for safety
CLASS 4 : Strenuous climbing with
considerable exposure; very steep slopes mean that nearly all
climbers will desire a rope for safety
CLASS 5 : Technical rock climbing
where proper use of ropes and other climbing equipment is essential
for safety. Class 5 is further subdivided by decimals (Yosemite
Decimal System). These range from 5.0 (easiest, large holds for
hands and feet) to the current maximum of 5.14d, (extremely steep
and difficult with tiny holds for hands and feet). From 5.10 to
5.14, the class is subdivided once again by using the letters
a,b,c and d. Class 5 is also known as "free climbing",
because ropes and other equipment are not used for upward progress;
they only catch the climber in the event of a fall.
CLASS 6 : Artificial or "aid climbing", where
the use of equipment is necessary for upward movement.
The final component of the system is the Aid rating, used only
for class 6 climbs. The aid rating is subdivided into the following
five categories:
A1 : Extremely easy aid climbing, placements
are very
A2 : Easy aid climbing, placements
are relatively strong
A3 : Strenuous aid climbing, sometimes
difficult to make good placements for upward progress
A4 : Difficult aid climbing, many
placements are weak and may only hold body weight
A5 : Extremely difficult aid climbing,
extremely weak placements, high potential for a long a dangerous
fall. Sometimes referred to as "borderline death".
These three rating components are combined to provide a detailed
description of a climb, with the Grade listed first, the Class
listed second and the Aid rating, (if applicable) listed third.
A route described as (IV 5.8 A2) means that the grade is IV (an
all day climb), the class is 5.8 (moderately difficult, technical
rock climbing), and the Aid climbing is relatively easy. A climb
rated (VI 5.11 A5+) means be prepared for many days of intense,
dangerous climbing and make sure your life insurance is paid up!
Favorite
Areas
Joshua Tree National
Park
- large boulders in spectacular surroundings, near high desert
region Joshua Tree,
California
Inyo National Forest
- Buttermilks, large boulders in spectacular foothills area
of Bishop, California
off Hwy. 395
Los Padres National
Forest - Region just north of Ojai,
California along Hwy. 33
- Wheeler Gorge
- Piedra Blancas
Mojave National Preserve
- Southern Desert Area between Interstate 15 & Interstate
40. Granite Boulder with very few crowds. Located off Kelbaker
Rd.
Sequoia National Forest
- South Sierra region just north of Kernville,
California above Hwy. 178
San Bernardino National
Forest - SoCal region near the small community of Idyllwild,
California
Yosemite National
Park
- El Capitan
- Half Dome
- Great Circle
- Wheat Thin
- Reed's Direct
- Bishops Balcony
- Killer Pillar
Classes are available from Yosemite Mountaineering School.
Yosemite Valley
September - May
209/372-1244 |
Tuloumne Meadows
June - August
209/372-1335 |
Other Popular
Areas
Lake Perris.....campground near Big Rock
Anza Borrego State Park
... Piedra Grandes
San Diego urban park - Mission Trails Co. Park
San Diego backcountry - Valley of the Moon
Zion National Park,
Utah
Instruction
| Guides & Rock Climbing Schools |
California Alpine Guides
P.O. Box 8486
Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546
877 MTN-CLIMB
Sierra Rock Climbing School
242 N. Tumbleweed Rd. Bishop CA 93514
877-686-7625
World class rock climbing instruction & guiding
Get Lost Adventures
1140 Venice Blv #216, Venice, CA 90291
310-574-2653
Backpacking & Rock Climbing Guides in SoCal
Santa Barbara Adventure
Co.
PO Box 208 Santa Barbara CA 93102
888/596-6687
805/882-2096
-
- Mountain Adventure Seminars
Guiding Service
148 Bear Valley Rd.
PO.Box 5450, Bear Valley, CA 95223
209/753-65565
-
- Rock Industries Unlimited, Inc.
Mountain Bike Rental & Tour, Rock Climb
P.O.Box: 5081
Norco, CA 92860-5081
714/448-6075
-
Vertical Adventures
P.O. Box 7548
Newport Beach, CA 92658
800/514-8785
949/854-6250
guides in Joshua Tree & Idyllwild area
Vertical Hold
outta state guides:
The Ascending Path: Climbing Guide Service in Alaska
PO Box 1279 Girdwood, AK 99523
907 783-0505
Rock & Ice Climbing
